Guide to San Francisco
Some ideas for a classic weekend in the City by the Bay.
In just a few weeks, my family and I will head back home to San Francisco after a couple of years living in Seville, Spain. The time away gave me a chance to realize what I love most about the Bay Area—so I put together a guide to keep track. It’s part reminder to myself, part list of recommendations for friends and family visiting soon.
San Francisco has dozens of great neighborhoods, but I’m not going to cover them all. This is simpler: just the places I’ve lived and worked since moving here from New York thirteen years ago—The Mission, Potrero Hill, Bernal Heights, and Dogpatch.
What follows is a loose outline of a typical weekend with my family. The way we do it.
There’s one main reason we chose San Francisco, and you’ll probably catch on right away: we wanted to live in a city where it’s always a pleasure to be outside. We wanted nature close by. Hills and good light. Air that smells like sea salt and eucalyptus. Great food. Smart people. And somewhere we wouldn’t freeze.
Below, you’ll find the phases of a day and a few ways we like to enjoy them—mostly outdoors. :)
Morning
Run along the waterfront
You could bike or surf, too. The important thing is to just get outside and experience morning light someplace fresh. There are nearly 20 miles of continuous running paths and trails along the peninsula's coastline. Any section of it—or all of it—is a wonderful way to see the city and earn the rest of the day.
I recommend these routes.
Grab a coffee and a breakfast burrito
Sightglass Coffee on 20th Street is my all-around favorite spot for coffee and meeting a friend for a chat. They have some outdoor seating, and better yet, they open at 6:30am. If you're a coffee shop and not open by 7am, what are you even doing?
A new addition to the neighborhood is Side A, a combination bistro and vinyl listening room, but in the mornings, The Coffee Movement is behind the counter serving coffee and fresh donuts.
Also noteworthy is Marigold Café, just a few blocks south of Sightglass. It's tucked away in the back half of a pretty flower shop. They have a few tables, and their sidewalk landscaping is great, too.
Here's a list of more coffee in the Mission.
Afterward, use the ubiquitous bike-sharing—Bay Wheels—to cycle over to Breakfast Little and order an OG: bacon or sausage, two eggs, cheese, garlic aioli, eggs, and tater tots. I prefer the sausage with avocado and sriracha, too.
Fill up on sourdough
Tartine Manufactory
If you prefer brunch over burritos, I recommend Tartine, the bakery famed for perfecting sourdough baking. There are two locations in SF, both in the Mission. We prefer the "Manufactory" because it's easier to get a table, and it's next to the Heath Ceramics factory and shop.
The dining room is dominated by large ovens so that you can smell the loaves as they're pulled out warm. There is a full coffee bar and pastries and a full breakfast menu (as well as a pizza menu at night if you want to come back later for seconds).
After brunch, we usually grab a loaf to go for the week's toast and sandwiches at home.
Shop a farmers' market
There are two excellent farmers' market options on Saturdays, the Alemany and the Ferry Plaza markets.
The Ferry Plaza is the classic strollable weekend market: good coffee, photogenic stacks of produce, and just enough here and there to put together lunch, plus stunning views of the sparkling waterfront and Bay Bridge. Be sure to look for the Hog Island tent where you can buy shucked oysters to eat on the spot.
More often we go to Alemany. It is massive, and the variety of fruit and veg and flowers is impressive. A lot of things you've never seen before. I often see chefs from some of my favorite restaurants shopping for ingredients for their kitchens. We always buy a couple dozen extra-small Miyagi oysters from Bodega Bay Oyster Company's stall for a picnic later.
Alemany is harder to reach. There is a bus, but it's 40-50 min from downtown. We usually take a car.
Lunch
Tacos in the Mission
The Mission is known for its burritos, but we like tacos better, and there are just as many good options.
You'll find Tacos El Patron off the beaten path on the southern edge of the neighborhood. We love everything there, though their specialty is birria tacos with consommé.
There's also a taco truck we love called El Gallo Giro parked on the corner of Treat and 23rd, but unfortunately they're not around on the weekends. There is no reliable seating, but there is a little park across the street with tables and a decent playground.
Here's a more complete list of noteworthy tacos and burritos in the Mission.
Oysters in the Ferry Building
If you visit the Ferry Building farmers market, then you might just stick around to have lunch at one of the restaurants inside.
Hog Island
If you have time, we recommend signing up for a table at this Bay Area oyster institution. It's worth the wait in line to have a couple dozen raw sweetwaters, clam chowder, a pint of pilsner, and a view of the ferries coming and going.
Gott's Roadside
If you need food fast, I recommend this small chain of burger stands in Northern California, centered in Napa County. It's kind of the Bay Area's equivalent to Shake Shack, but the menu is more expansive (Dungeness crab sandwiches, etc.).
Picnic somewhere beautiful
We're picnic people and always on the lookout for a spot where a good spread would make it perfect. Some of our go-to's are below. Plus, I can recommend a couple of places to shop for groceries. We think Gus's is the archetype of a great neighborhood market (the wine selection is also excellent). There is also Bi-Rite, which is an SF institution, but the prices might be a little too exorbitant for a casual picnic.
Here are some good places to spread out:
Baker Beach and Crissy Field
Just around the corner from Ocean Beach is the Presidio, a historic and expansive fort that has since been decommissioned. The centuries-long military use has essentially preserved some of the most splendid real estate in the city. There are also a couple of other wonderful beaches there: Baker Beach and Crissy Field. Both have good views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Headlands (the hills on the other side of the bridge). If you're with kids, be sure to visit Tunnel Tops Park inside the Presidio, too.
Dolores Park
One of the prettiest neighborhood parks in the city and a real slice of SF. Lots of people spread out on blankets, dogs, rollerbladers, and vendors selling ice cream and edibles. Superb playground for kids. And a deceptively tall hill on the back side that gives a view of the city skyline. Just a half-block from Bi-Rite, so super convenient to go run for more beer when you need it.
Dunes at Ocean Beach
When we're in Golden Gate Park, we'll usually walk over to Hook Fish for fish burritos (the red cabbage combined with the breaded black cod is a revelation). Grab some bottles of Pacifico, too, and walk over to the dunes overlooking Ocean Beach (pictured above). The lines at Hook Fish can get long, so you might want to use their website to order ahead for pickup.
Afternoon
Get out on the water
SF sits between the Pacific and the Bay, one of the largest natural harbors in the world. There are many ways to explore it, to visit its islands and coves, and to have views of the city's skyline as well as the Golden Gate and Bay bridges. And it's not uncommon to see seals, sea lions, dolphins, rays, and even whales, too.
Angel Island
Any time we have an out-of-town visitor, we make sure to take them to Angel Island. Several times a day you can catch a ferry from the Ferry Building over to this state park in the middle of the bay. There is a network of trails on the island that takes you through several different ecosystems and panoramic views of the bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. We like the Sunset Loop going clockwise, which first takes you up to the peak for sweeping views before you descend downhill. Before you circle back to the docks to catch the ferry home, we like to split off to Perles Beach and have a picnic. Be careful of the ferry schedule; you want to make sure you're back at the docks well before the last ferry of the day.
Farallon Islands
About 30 miles off the Pacific coast is a group of rugged, remote islands that form part of the Farallon National Wildlife Refuge. Known for their rich biodiversity, the islands host one of the largest seabird colonies in the U.S. and are a hotspot for great white sharks, seals, and whales due to nutrient-rich waters. Access is highly restricted for conservation, but it's possible to take a boat out and see the islands as close as you can get without stepping ashore. We travel with the Oceanic Society. It's an all-day journey to go there and back, and if the water is choppy, it can be an uncomfortable ride. But it's a real treat to return to SF through the Golden Gate at dusk. Dress warmly :).
Sailing
You might also consider booking a crewed sailboat. Bring your own cooler with lunch and drinks and do a circuit around the bay. It's surreal to approach the Golden Gate Bridge from underneath. If you have a large enough group, you could even charter the whole boat. We had a great experience with San Francisco Sailing Company.
Explore Golden Gate Park
Some compare Golden Gate Park to Central Park. The scale is similar, but the concept is different. I see it as a transitional space between the dunes and the ocean at Pacific Beach and the urban core of the city to the east. It's also a theme park filled with attractions. There are several museums, fields, and parks within the park. Here are some of my favorites.
Botanical Garden
A living museum of plants from around the world. Spanning 55 acres, it features over 8,000 different plant species, with collections that thrive in San Francisco's unique climate. Everything from redwoods to rare cloud forest plants from Central and South America. There are several themed gardens, like the ancient plants garden and the fragrant magnolia collection. It's a great spot to picnic.
California Academy of Sciences aka Cal Academy
Excellent science museum that houses an aquarium, planetarium, rainforest dome, and natural history exhibits. Its living rooftop, covered with native plants, is a striking sight. One of our kids' favorites.
Car-free JFK and the Great Walkway
During the COVID pandemic, a grassroots movement led to the closure of JFK Drive and sections of the Great Highway to cars, creating a safe, pedestrian- and cyclist-friendly zone that winds through the park and then along Ocean Beach. Currently the Great Highway is only closed to cars on weekends.
Casting Ponds
I didn't know such things existed before I moved to SF: a dedicated space for fly fishing practice. Surrounded by eucalyptus trees, this is a serene spot to practice casting. It's open to the public and completely free. You do need to bring your own rod.
de Young Tower
The de Young Museum’s Observation Tower offers panoramic views of San Francisco, Golden Gate Park, and the Pacific Ocean. Just walk into the museum and follow signs for the tower. There is no need to buy museum admission to enter; tower access is free. Though the museum is worth visiting, too.
Japanese Tea Garden
The oldest public Japanese garden in the U.S., it has everything you would expect: beautifully manicured landscapes, koi ponds, rock gardens, and pagodas. You can enjoy cherry blossoms in spring and maple leaves in autumn. We like to linger at the teahouse and munch on sandwiches and cookies.
Hike to a good view
Crosstown Trail
The 17-mile urban hiking and biking route that spans San Francisco from the southeastern to the northwestern corners. Designed to be easily accessible, it strategically overlaps with public transportation routes, allowing hikers and cyclists to tackle sections of the trail without needing a car.
Weaving through city streets, parks, stairways, and nature areas, the trail offers a unique way to explore San Francisco’s diverse neighborhoods and green spaces, providing a mix of scenic views, challenging terrain, and hidden gems along the way. We've only done it once, tackling it in four sections with our kids over a few weekends, but we know friends who have completed it in one day without kids. It's really fun to drop in and out of different neighborhoods, sampling food in each, before climbing out to enter a different natural space.
Fort Funston
This has got to be the prettiest dog park in the world. On the southern end of San Francisco, you'll find dramatic dunes and cliffs that form the backdrop to a popular spot for dog owners, offering trails, wide beaches, and scenic coastal views where dogs can roam off-leash. The park’s steep cliffs covered with succulents make for a particularly unique space to explore.
Marin Headlands
A vast open space that offers a variety of outdoor activities with breathtaking coastal views. In any other state, this space would be a national park. We can't believe it is literally on the other side of the bridge.
It's popular with cyclists, but if you're on foot, start with a hike along the Coastal Trail, where you'll find vistas of the Pacific Ocean, rugged cliffs, and the bridge. We usually stop at Rodeo Beach, a good spot for beachcombing and picnicking. You can also poke your head into the Headland Center for the Arts to see what they're exhibiting.
Shop on Valencia
Baggu
One of the only four shops in the world for the beloved, cult-favorite bag maker.
Bernal Cutlery
Culinary shop known for its exceptional selection of hand-sharpened knives and expert knife-sharpening services.
Dog Eared Books
A cozy, beloved independent bookstore offering a wide range of new and used books, with a focus on local authors and diverse, offbeat titles.
Gravel & Gold
Boutique for unique clothing, accessories, and home goods, all designed with an emphasis on craftsmanship and personality. It's my first stop for Mother's Day gifts.
Open Editions
Art and design shop with an excellent selection of stationery and unique paper goods.
Paxton Gate
One-of-a-kind. Shop taxidermy, gems, macabre oddities, plants, and other natural science-inspired gifts.
Ritual Coffee
One of my favorite coffee shops and my go-to source for beans to grind and pour over at home.
Binge on art
There are several excellent art collections in the city. Below are some of our favorites.
Asian Art Museum
This museum in San Francisco houses one of the most comprehensive collections of Asian art in the world, spanning 6,000 years and a diverse range of cultures, from ancient to contemporary pieces.
Balmy Alley
Iconic block-long alley in the Mission featuring a constantly changing collection of murals by local artists. Afterwards, stroll down 24th Street, one of the most lively and colorful corridors in the city that reflects the city's deep Hispanic heritage.
de Young Museum
Inside Golden Gate Park, it showcases American art from the 17th through the 21st centuries, along with modern and contemporary art, textiles, and international pieces. Make sure to visit the top of the observation tower, plus the café is not a bad option to have lunch inside the park.
Exploratorium
An interactive museum that blends science, art, and human perception, offering hands-on exhibits to inspire curiosity and learning. A must-visit for kids, fun for adults, too.
Legion of Honor
A beautiful Beaux-Arts building housing a collection focused on European art, featuring paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts, including a renowned collection of Rodin sculptures.
Minnesota Street Project
Not a museum, but a bunch of large warehouses full of smaller, private galleries to view works by emerging artists.
SFMOMA
Seven floors housing an expansive collection of modern and contemporary art, the temporary exhibitions are usually excellent, and the café and gift shop are particularly good.
Happy Hour
Beer
Fort Point
This pourhouse is a local craft brewery with a modern vibe you typically don't find in a beer joint. Pretty decent bar food, too.
Radhaus
Bavarian-inspired beer hall inside a former shipping warehouse inside Fort Mason. Stunning views of the bay and classic German snacks like pretzels and sausages.
Shotwell's
This is a classic San Francisco corner bar. Vast selection of local and imported craft beer and cider. There's also a jukebox and pool table, which makes it a fun place to crash with friends before or after dinner. I think it has one of the prettiest "parklets" in the city.
Cocktails
Cavaña
Rooftop bar on the top of the LUMA hotel. Beautiful indoor/outdoor space with views in every direction. The bar snacks are also excellent. It can get crowded at night, so you have the best chance of finding a place to sit at happy hour. Access via the elevator near the hotel's valet.
Cityscape Bar
San Francisco has only a few bars with great views from above; this is one of the better options. The decor and the menu are just OK, but it's situated up on the 46th floor of the Hilton Union Square, and the panoramic views of the city are spectacular. It's particularly dramatic at sunset.
Moongate Lounge
Elegant bar located above Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown. The room is unusually stylized: mid-century design with hints of traditional Chinese architecture like circular portals, red velvet booths, and brass lotus chandeliers.
The Royal Cuckoo
An excellent dive. Cozy, dim except for many red lights, church pews, and usually great music—often a DJ, sometimes an organist.
Trick Dog
This spot is on every list of America's best cocktail bars. Every few months they go to great lengths to remake the cocktail list and produce a beautiful printed menu that is a piece of art in and of itself. Plus, if you're a runner, you should check out their run club while you're in town. Lots of the staff participate, and everyone is super welcoming.
True Laurel
Contemporary space with poured concrete and cobalt accents. Almost always has a great vibe. We love the Bay Leaf martinis and the crispy Hen of the Woods mushrooms with sour cream.
Wine
Ruby Wine
Wine shop where you can buy bottles off the shelf and, for a small fee, uncork and enjoy them at a window seat. A bit of a scene.
Verjus
Wine bar and restaurant in one of San Francisco's most charming downtown neighborhoods, Jackson Square. There's a bar set inside of a wine shop with places to stand or sit while you drink wine by the glass or wait for a table in the dining room next door and enjoy a bottle with a menu of savory dishes. Intimate and classy space.
Dinner
Go-to's
Bon, Nene
A Japanese comfort food restaurant in a modest corner storefront, run by a kind woman named Miu. She's beloved by all of the neighbors, so much so the place can feel like a cafeteria where the locals loyally go for lunch daily. I like the mentaiko spaghetti (tossed with a cured cod roe mix, seaweed, shiso leaf, and a creamy buttery sauce), and my kids love the veggie curry. Be sure to try the frozen beer.
Buddy
Cozy and welcoming neighborhood bar and café known for its menu of natural wine by the glass and creative seasonal dishes. We love the chorizo and clams, strawberries with burrata, radish crudité, and trumpet mushrooms.
Heirloom Cafe
Our regular good meal. The ambiance and welcoming staff are something special and together make it a beloved spot in the neighborhood. The wine list is excellent. Tell Amy and Stephen we sent you.
Rintaro
A Japanese izakaya in the Mission that offers us a cozy setting with a menu focused on seasonal ingredients and traditional techniques. Its house-made noodles and selection of sake are excellent.
Date night
Bix
A classic ambiance reminiscent of a 1930s supper club with live jazz and piano music. The vibe is white tablecloths and too many martinis.
Cotogna
Located near Jackson Square, Cotogna specializes in rustic Italian fare, offering house-made pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and locally sourced meats and vegetables. Refined without feeling stuffy.
Foreign Cinema
California cuisine in a former theater converted into a bar and restaurant. There are both indoor and outdoor dining rooms. Outside, classic films are screened while you're dining. Inside is a fireplace that we always try to get a table next to if possible. There is also a small bar in the back where I sneak to when I'm alone just to play chess on my phone with a glass of wine.
Zuni Cafe
A San Francisco institution known for its California classics, particularly the legendary brick oven-roasted chicken served with a side of Caesar salad. Great bar, too, if you just want a drink before a show or dinner elsewhere.
Special occasions
SF is one of the world's capitals of paying too much for dinner. If you want a superlative meal, you'll find a long list in the Michelin Guide. We're not hounds about pursuing Michelin stars, but here are a few excellent places that aren't too uptight.
Angler
Located on the Embarcadero, Angler specializes in fresh seafood prepared using open-fire cooking techniques. There is a large dining room with views of the open kitchen or a cozier bar and dining room off the back. NYT did a write up, worth reading before dining.
House of Prime Rib
A beloved institution in San Francisco, House of Prime Rib serves up roast beef with all the trappings you'd expect: creamy mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and Yorkshire pudding. It's an old-school atmosphere where old-school San Franciscans celebrate special occasions or just want a charming fireplace to be near when drinking martinis and old-fashioneds.
Quince
Located in Jackson Square, Quince is a three-Michelin-star restaurant focused on seasonal Californian cuisine. Everything is fresh and beautiful. This is a very elegant spot, but it always feels approachable. It's a great choice for celebrating a very special occasion without feeling overly formal.
Evening
Sweat and plunge
Archimedes Banya
In New York, I was a regular at the Russian & Turkish Baths on 10th Street. Archimedes is my SF counterpart. It has two large Russian 'banyas', a sauna, a plunge pool, hot tubs, and a steam room. Some areas are clothing optional. There is also a cafeteria where you can play chess, watch sports, drink pilsner, and nibble on vaguely Eastern European snacks like pickles and sausages with cabbage and a side of mustard. There are also a couple of rooftop patios where you can cool off and glimpse the city skyline and the Bay Bridge, both of which twinkle spectacularly at night.
Catch a game
Oracle Park
Located along the waterfront, Oracle Park is the home of the San Francisco Giants and is renowned for its stunning views of the San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge. When we're bringing the kids, we don't bother to buy good seats; we sit up in sections 305-310, where there's the least wind and the best views of the bay. If you're lucky, our division rivals—the Dodgers or the Padres—will be in town. Garlic fries are a must-order.
If baseball isn't in season, try walking south down to the Chase Center. Our basketball team is usually pretty good, too. :)
Dance
Bar Part Time
There are not enough places to dance in San Francisco, but we do have one thing you probably haven't seen before: a dive bar meets natural wine meets a dance floor. A long bar, private booths, commercial fridges of wine bottles you can grab yourself, and usually a great DJ set.
Did I miss something obvious?
Leave me a comment. I would love to make this guide a really good one.
Prefer a simple list or map?
→ List of my recommendations for activities, food, drink, and shopping ... or a map
Need a hotel?
→ My recommendations for places to stay
Saving for a future trip! For drinks, what about Smuggler’s Cove? I have their cocktail book and it’s incredible.
Also love Chuy's Fiestas for pleasant backyard dining, seafood tacos, and micheladas.